An Interview with Mick Fogg

PONANT’s Australian Expedition Manager

Mick is the Director of Expeditions and Destination Development, Asia Pacific for PONANT, and has led more than 300 expeditions through the Sub-Antarctic, South East Asia and Oceania regions spanning a 15-year career.

His enthusiasm for the cultures, wildlife and wonders of Australia is contagious! Below follows an article from PONANT where Mick talks about one of his all time favourite places – Australia’s Kimberley that we would like to share with you.

Question: After having led more than 300 expeditions through the Sub-Antarctic, South East Asia and Oceania regions, why does The Kimberley still amaze you?

MICK FOGG: It’s like nowhere else on earth, a wild land of remote, spectacular scenery spread over vast distances, it’s the Antarctica of the tropics. The sheer size and age of the landscape are humbling and it is a privilege to experience such a pristine environment that has so many facets.

It is home to the oldest continuous culture on earth, the world’s largest living reptile, the only two ‘horizontal falls’ on the planet, the world’s largest inshore reef and the largest population of migrating humpback whales on the planet. The Kimberley is one of the world’s last great wilderness areas and one of Australia’s greatest natural assets. It is a destination that everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.

Question: Why is it different travelling by sea compared to doing The Kimberley by land?

MICK FOGG: The Kimberley coastline extends over 12,000 kilometres and contains more than 2,500 islands. The coastal environment is very different to the inland region, the spectacular archipelagos, pristine mangrove environments and deep gorges can only be accessed from the sea.

There are only a few places along the coast that can be accessed from the land, and these are only accessible to the truly adventurous over difficult 4WD tracks that require a lot of preparation. On board a luxury small ship like L’Austral you can experience all the coast has to offer in extreme comfort with a highly attentive crew to look after you.

Question: What do you continue to watch in awe, even after having experienced it over 100 times?

MICK FOGG: Montgomery Reef seemingly rising from the ocean.

Question: Can you explain how the reef rises from the ocean?

MICK FOGG: Imagine 400 square kilometres of reef system invisible at high tide, covered by more than five metres of water. Then, as the tide recedes, the earth appears to bend as the water struggles to escape off the top of the reef fast enough. As Montgomery Reef breaks through the surface, water starts to cascade off the reef, forming one of the world’s longest waterfalls. There really is no adequate way to describe it and photos and video don’t do it justice.

You have to see Montgomery Reef for yourself. It is an experience that will stay with you forever. Montgomery Reef at high tide completely covered by water, the water cascading off the reef turning into rapids. The reef appears before your eyes – a feeding frenzy for the birds which swoop down on all the marine life caught on the reef at low tide.

Question: I’ve heard the tidal changes in The Kimberley are something to be seen to fully appreciate the sheer volume of water and power of the tides

MICK FOGG: Absolutely! Talbot Bay and the ‘Horizontal Falls’ provide a great opportunity to witness the power of the tides. The Kimberley has, arguably, the 2nd largest tidal change in the world, creating a truly unique phenomenon. It’s amazing to think that there are only two ‘Horizontal Falls’ on the planet and both are in our own backyard! David Attenborough has described these Falls as one of the greatest wonders of the natural world. Ponant will take guests in Zodiacs to coincide with the peak flow at the Horizontal Falls taking you right to the mouth of the falls to feel the power of up to 1 million liters of water passing through the falls every second!

Question: The Kimberley is known for its breathtaking Gorges. What’s your favourite?

MICK FOGG: The 19-kilometre Gorge of King George with its spectacular 90 metre high sandstone cliffs. For the more adventurous guests we offer a hike to the top of the King George Falls where they will be rewarded by an amazing view and a refreshing swim, but for me it’s about the journey up the Gorge – it is absolutely spectacular. The colours of the Warton Sandstone change throughout the day creating endless photographic opportunities– an area ideal for exploration by Zodiac.

Question: The Kimberley is home to an incredible number of Indigenous rock art sites, and this is one of the primary reason for it being put forward for world heritage listing. Is there any style of Indigenous art that is close to your heart?

MICK FOGG: The Wandjina Rock Art Gallery of Ngumbre at Raft Point is a special place. There is a sense of tranquillity that spreads over you as you sit and contemplate the activities that have gone on in this significant location of the Worrorra people. I take great pleasure in watching Ponant guests interact with the traditional custodians of the land and learn about their ancient culture and stories in stone.

The Wandjina images came to prominence during the 2000 Sydney Olympics when a Wandjina image was chosen to represent Indigenous Australia. The image of a 40-foot-high Namarali rising from the ground was a very special moment. During the 2016 Vivid festival, there was a spectacular projection of Wandjina figures onto the Sydney Opera House and that is certainly an image I won’t forget for a very long time.

Question: Is it true that in The Kimberley you will find the oldest depictions of the human form on the planet?

MICK FOGG: Whilst no exact dates on the age of the Gwion Gwion style of rock art unique to the Kimberley has been validated, it is generally thought that they are at least 15,000 years old and may be as much as 40,000 years old. These intricate and complex depictions of the human form may be more than 5 times older than Egyptian Hieroglyphs. They were once known as ‘Bradshaws’ but their correct name is Gwion Gwion or Gyorn Gyorn. It is yet another fascinating aspect of our Kimberley experience.

Question: What’s an unknown fact about The Kimberley that people discover?

MICK FOGG: When they travel to The Kimberley with Ponant in July and August, guests don’t realise that this is the prime breeding time for Humpback Whales. In fact, in The Kimberley there were 36,500 Humpback Whales there last year – the largest population of migrating Humpback Whales on the planet.

Question: Who do you have travelling with guests Mick?

MICK FOGG: Each voyage is accompanied by 12 Expedition Guides who are experts in their fields – renowned anthropologists, marine biologists, historians, botanists, geologists, naturalists and ornithologists all giving guests a greater understanding of the area. They really are the best in the business and your journey will be so enriched by their knowledge, enthusiasm and experience.

Call us on 1300 766 537 or email info@cruiseexpress.com.au if you’d like to visit The Kimberley.

Weathered by eons of rain, wind and sea spray, Australia’s untouched Kimberley is almost as old as the Earth itself

 

The walls of the cave are emblazoned with graffiti so old that no-one can really date these creations with certainty. Some researchers believe the exquisite rock art depictions we see in The Kimberley could be at least 50,000 years old. Staring at them, we try to imagine the ancient people who came here and painted these intricate murals.

Prehistoric animals, ornately attired hunter figures and mysterious deities of unknown origin all adorn the bare rock face; standing testimony to the tribes who once lived among these rough canyons.

“The Kimberley is one of the most ecologically diverse areas in the world,” says former Chief Scientist of Western Australia, Professor Lyn Beazley AO. “Its biodiversity and marine ecosystem are among the world’s most pristine. The tropical savannahs of the region are the only near-untouched such landscapes left on the planet.”

Travel companies often use the term ‘pristine wilderness’ to describe somewhere away from the souvenir sellers and taxi touts of the world’s overcrowded tourist traps. But in the remote Kimberley region of Australia’s North West, you can be assured that its pristine wilderness is exactly that.

The Kimberley has been voted the top adventure cruise destination for Australians and is quickly establishing itself as a ‘must-do’. A secret well-kept by fishers, prospectors and cattle ranchers for decades, it’s a relatively new region for adventure cruising, explored only by more intrepid travellers over the past 30 years.

While overland travel is also popular, it can be a rough and uncomfortable experience and it’s not without its dangers. This is where the new breed of luxurious small ships come to the fore, offering comfort and sanctuary in a harsh environment. No other cruise line exemplifies this genre of modern, responsible travel better than Ponant.

Away from the crowded, commercialised ports, Ponant vessels are designed to reach remote, otherwise inaccessible locations with ease. They’re large enough to provide space and privacy for those onboard yet, each state-of-the-art vessel is also small enough to venture where mega-ships can never sail.

Excursions take place aboard sturdy Zodiac runabouts, with just a handful of passengers in each boat and an expert interpreter to guide your experience. With 30 years of maritime experience, Ponant is at the forefront of small ship cruising – it’s gleaming, futuristic vessels are equipped with the most advanced technological and environmentally sensitive tools. Guests can expect to receive a supremely comfortable voyage in luxurious surroundings akin to a 5-star hotel.

In 2018, Ponant responded to the urging of its many repeat guests and launched the first of its new Explorer-class ships, which are designed for adventurous voyages to remote or challenging destinations – including the sought-after Polar regions. These new vessels, of which a total of six are planned, are slightly smaller and more agile than the current fleet and have a raft of adventure-specific features such as an innovative underwater viewing lounge (the ‘Blue Eye’), as well as kayaks and paddleboards.

Ponant is also well known for its gastronomy, with menus devised by world-renowned chef Alain Ducasse. There’s also a comprehensive wine cellar aboard every ship, overseen by a knowledgeable sommelier. To bolster the luxury, indulgent spa treatments can be enjoyed after a conscience-cleansing workout in the gym. 

Another clever feature of these new Explorer-class vessels is the hydraulically retractable marina at the stern, where Zodiac tenders are embarked and disembarked. Climbing in and out of tenders can be a nerve-wracking process for less mobile guests, even in the relatively calm waters of the Kimberley.

But this versatile accessory simplifies the procedure considerably, making the overall experience more stress-free and enjoyable. Another thing worth noting is that the vessel dedicated by Ponant to cruising the Kimberley, Le Lapérouse, has a reasonable-sized swimming pool on board. This is much appreciated when you’re craving a relaxing dip in the sun because swimming in the waters off the Kimberley coast is not possible due to the abundance of saltwater crocodiles (a fact that will soon become clear as your expedition guide points out the big reptiles populating the riverbanks).

Ponant’s Iconic Kimberley itinerary is one of the most comprehensive offered by any major cruise operator. In 2020, 11 back-to-back 11-day voyages will take place between May and September, with a different set of excursions every day. The Hunter River, for example, is one of the most picturesque landscapes in the Kimberley, where wild mangrove forests are home to abundant bird species.

“The high point of this voyage,” says veteran expedition leader Mick Fogg, “will undoubtedly be our exploration of the King George River and its majestic twin falls, the highest in Western Australia. “We also visit Collier Bay, the site of the mysterious Montgomery Reef, where the entire marine ecosystem appears to rise from the sea with the falling tide like a reappearing Atlantis.”

Throughout each journey, Le Lapérouse will traverse one of Australia’s most ancient and awe-inspiring coastlines. The Kimberley’s spectacular waterfalls, stark gorges, vast savannah and desolate mountain ranges are all waiting to be explored by one of the world’s most modern, luxurious expedition cruise ships. A visit to the Kimberley is, in every sense, a giant step back in time to a land almost unchanged since dinosaurs roamed these parts. In fact, with a keen eye, you might just spot one.

WORDS: RODERICK EIME