Reviewed by: Richard Boyce

Date: May 2019

Rail company and train: Belmond, Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

Locomotives: Electric

Size of train and passenger capacity: 17 cars, 200 passengers

Year built: 1920s

Geographic coverage: Primarily Venice to Calais-Ville or vice versa. Several trips a year to other destinations such as Prague and Istanbul.

Interesting historical facts: In the early 80s British businessman James Sherwood attended an auction of four carriages in Monte Carlo that had once been used on various luxury European routes including the Simplon Express. Winning the bid on two carriages, he and his wife Shirley then set about tracking down other Pullman cars throughout Europe, many of which had sat in sidings for decades in a somewhat derelict state. The cars were sent to workshops to be restored, bringing into use workman with skills that hadn’t been used in some time – particularly in the craft of marquetry. At the same time they also sourced original Pullmans in the UK giving them the same spectacular attention to detail in their restorations. This train would eventually become the Belmond British Pullman. The two trains now connect on either side of the channel providing what is now known as the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.

Suited for: Anyone really. While there is a certain dress code no one should feel this train isn’t for them. I have heard in the past that it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience – I tend to disagree. This train is the perfect way to travel between Italy, France and the UK or vice versa when you simply want a refined travel experience rather than flying or endless connections on standard trains.

Having said this, the train possibly isn’t ideal for children given its more formal nature.

Main features / highlights: The train may have competitors within the luxury market (mostly run by Belmond who also run the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express), however there can be few that have the legend and history of this one. Large compartments and suites provide a lovely and comfortable atmosphere to watch the stunning countryside roll by. There is also a lounge car for passengers to relax in with a bar and a piano which is immensely popular before meal times.

Atmosphere: While you might expect the first word I use here to be ‘luxurious’ – in fact my first impressions were of an utter lack of pretension or stuffiness. The staff are warm, welcoming and very down to earth without ever losing the atmosphere of intuitive luxury service. You are always greeted by name, and a preference once known is remembered. The staff are never intrusive and somehow knew when I might want a coffee, water or perhaps a top up of champagne. My compartment was ready for night time use when I returned from dinner and breakfast was served at the time I requested prior to arrival in Paris. Whatever I wanted or needed – it was no trouble at all, including a last minute removal of fluff from my dinner suit as I had forgotten my lint roller.

Typical experience during the day: Many passengers choose to relax in their own compartments while some head for the lounge car where the staff are on hand to bring you any beverage you can think of. It’s all very friendly and relaxed. The staff were always there when you needed them without being intrusive. If you can take your eyes off the gleaming brass and marquetry, the countryside of Switzerland and France provides endless entertainment. On my journey a short stop was made at Innsbruck to change locomotives which is handy for anyone who would like to stretch their legs or have a smoke. On this note smoking is naturally not permitted on the train so my suggestion is take some patches. You’ll be so busy taking in the stunning scenery you won’t miss it at all!

Dining: The train has three dining cars each with a distinctive decorative style. Between Venice and Calais you have lunch, dinner and brunch allowing you to be seated in each dining car which is a nice touch. The food is nothing if not spectacular with several courses being served in a set menu format. An A La Carte menu is offered for an additional fee should you wish. Wines are sourced from throughout the world, also an additional fee, and were excellent. Ingredients are picked up fresh from local vendors during the journey straight from the farms – you can’t get fresher than that!

The biggest thing you notice is actually what you don’t. The service is seamless – somehow those unneeded wine glasses disappeared without me ever noticing. Plates were presented with the VSOE crest precisely to the left, cutlery was changed, courses appeared once everyone on the table had finished theirs – all leaving you to enjoy the experience without the service ever being intrusive. The waiters like everywhere else on the train soon learned our preferences and they were offered without fault. Many of the staff have worked on the train for decades and are masters in their craft.

For those with dietary requests you must advise your requirements in advance.

Sleeping accommodation: The train is made up of compartment carriages that have one upper and one lower bed. Each compartment has a small wardrobe that opens to provide a wash basin with hot and cold water, towels, soaps and a rather lovely amenities pack with skin care products. A large toilet is provided at the end of each carriage. For those who need to use the facilities during the night, slippers and a kimono are provided. Note note that while you can use your kimono while onboard, it must be purchased if you wish to take it home with you.

After dinner you will return to your compartment or suite to find it readied for the evening.

There are two carriages that feature three large suites each. These suites feature either double or twin beds and the only showers onboard. Passengers in these suites may dine in suite rather than eat in the dining cars.

Other activities/offerings: There is a small shop onboard offering souvenirs and a small collection of jewellery. Should you take a fancy to the glassware or china, even these can be bought onboard or ordered.

Passenger join the train from Santa Lucia station in Venice and can travel overnight to Paris Gare de l’Est or continue to Callais-Ville where coaches will transfer you to Folkestone in England to board the Belmond British Pullman for the final leg to London Victoria. It should be noted that Belmond has a dedicated lounge at London Victoria for passengers joining there.

The dress code throughout the day is casual. Men should plan for nice shoes and pants (no jeans!), a collared shirt and jacket. Ladies wore everything from elegant dresses to separates. Just think of what you would feel comfortable wearing in the foyer of an upmarket hotel and you will hit the mark. In the evenings gentleman wear dark suits or dinner suits while ladies can easily get away with wearing a nice black dress with something sparkly. If you want to go all out and dress to the nines then this is the train to do it on – but on my train many of the gentleman simply wore dark suits and no one blinked twice.

The train is heated should the weather be cold. Ask your steward to show the the fascinating coal fired boiler at the end of the car. Should it be too warm, the windows do open.

My biggest tip is at night keep your blinds down or you may find yourself, as I did, lying in bed till all hours watching Lake Zurich go past… beautiful!

Currency: Euro. Most major credit cards are accepted.

Mobility access: Limited and not suitable for those confined to mobility equipment. Additionally at most stations in Europe the platform is much lower than the floor of the train requiring passenger to negotiate stairs into and out of the carriages. If you can negotiate stairs without too much trouble then you should be just fine.

Things to know: Unless you have booked a suite, the train does not have showers onboard. Each compartment as mentioned does have running water for you to freshen up. When joining the train in Venice boat transfers are provided from a select list of hotels direct to Santa Lucia Station. You should plan in advance to take only a small case with you for the overnight journey as your main luggage is transferred by road as space aboard the train is limited.